Shopping
Pest’s chic Váci utca and its surrounding avenues tempt the tourists with familiar high-street and designer names but bargain buys are to be found at Nagy Vásárcsarnok (the Great Market Hall), IX Fovám tér, an imposing three-storey structure that first opened in 1897 and now draws 30,000 shoppers daily. On the ground floor are strings of paprika-like red coral necklaces, pots of pickles, goose liver and salami. There is also a supermarket to stock up on Tokaj wines, Pálinka (cherry and apricot brandy) and bitter, black Zwack unicum. Upstairs, there is a choice of Kalocsa and Matyó hand-embroidered tablecloths, Zsolnay and Herendi porcelain, glittering beaded necklaces and traditional folk costumes.
Perhaps the best place for shoppers to haggle for folk costumes and communist relics is Ecseri Piac market, X Nagykorösi út 156, open Monday to Saturday 0700-1400.
Budapest’s antiques largely consist of Hapsburg-style furniture but are cheaper than in Vienna. The traditional antiques quarter lies around Falk Miksa utca. Antique shops can also be found in the Castle District and on the Váci utca. Hungarian music is another good buy. Classical record label Hungaroton offer CDs of the great Hungarian musicians for at least half the price.
Standard shop opening hours are Monday to Friday 0900-1800 and Saturday 0900-1300. Department stores usually open from 1000, while grocers, bakeries and supermarkets are open 0700-2000. Many shops open until 2000 or 2100 on Thursdays. Each district has at least one 24-hour store. Many small shops close for summer in late July and August and almost everything shuts on public holidays. Sales tax (ÁFA) of 25% (12% for food, some medical supplies, books and newspapers and hotel rooms) is included in the price and can be reclaimed by visitors purchasing goods worth Ft50,000 or more. A receipt and VAT-refund application form must be presented to customs on leaving the country.
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